A Bird's Eye View of Denver

When I think of eco-trips, exotic experiences come to mind: polar bears hitching rides on melting ice floes. Blue-footed boobies posing for photos in The Galapagos. Exotic birds preening their feathers in rain forests of South America. So I was a bit taken back when an uber-environmentalist and animal lover asked me to join her on an eco-trip to Denver.

“An eco-trip to the largest city in Colorado?” I asked.

She bubbled with enthusiasm. “We’ll learn how elephant poop and human waste will soon supply power to the new Asian Tropics exhibit at Denver Zoo (I wasn’t sure whether to gag or grin), visit a refuge for exotic carnivores once on the verge of being euthanized, and drive among a herd of buffalo grazing on land known that was once the largest environmental cleanup project in the history of the U.S.

How could I resist?

Denver Goes Green

The green movement in Denver began in earnest in 2005 when Mayor John Hickenlooper signed the U.S. Mayor’s Climate Protection Agreement and committed the city to reducing its emissions of greenhouse gases by 10 percent per capita by 2012. As a result, the city has become a national leader in the green movement.

On 16th Street — a one-third-mile stretch of chic hotels, restaurants and shops — there’s nary a car in sight. Instead, people walk or ride the free gas-powered MallRide from Union Station to the 16th Avenue/Broadway intersection. Three stations along the route provide connections to other RTD buses and light rail. The secret for success: the seven counties worked together to create a network of light rail that spans 720 miles.

The leafy city street is a Mecca for all who visit Denver, primarily because of the beautiful landscaping and eclectic public art, dictated by a 1988 law stating that every project over $1 million must set aside one percent of space for public art. Sixteenth Street is also an auditory treat. At intervals along the sidewalk, old pianos painted by local artists encourage musicians, instrumentalists and singers to entertain, or just amuse themselves. The good ones draw an appreciative crowd.

Other green efforts in this eco-minded city include earmarking the proceeds from legalized gambling for historic preservation – a successful effort to save historic structures, rather than hauling them piece by piece to land fills. Hotels and restaurants conserve water and feature locally-grown foods, and the once deserted and decaying buildings in the LoDo district have been re-purposed to create a lively night scene where more than 100 different local brands of beer are sold nightly.

On Being a Green Tourist

The Asian Tropics Opening Early 2012

Our agenda began with a hard hat tour of the Denver Zoo’s new 10-acre, five-habitat Asian Tropics exhibit now under construction. Soon it will be powered by the odorless gasification of elephant poop and human garbage, a venture that will convert 90 percent of the zoo’s waste stream into energy and save the facility $150,000.

For its efforts, the attraction was just named “the greenest zoo in the country” by the Association of Zoos and Aquariums, and officials are hoping it will become the first in America to receive Platinum or Gold level LEED certification.

I admit that in its current stage of development, it’s difficult to envision the completed Asian Tropics that will house the largest bull elephant enclosure in the nation, in addition to rhinos and tapirs. Best of all, mere humans will be able to view the entire panorama via a boardwalk which eliminates barriers between visitors and the animals. Add in gibbons swinging from habitat to habitat directly overhead, and there’s plenty to convince me to return with my eco-minded, peace-sign wearing grandchildren.

Wild Animal Sanctuary

Next on our list was the Wild Animal Sanctuary located in Keenesburg, just 30-miles from Denver, a seemingly odd place for rescued lions, tigers and bears (oh my!), wolves and other large carnivores that were once cruelly confined in small cages. But it’s one of those oddities that works.

As we walk along the above-ground ramp that separates two-legged animals from four, wolves howl at the coming dusk from atop a mound of earth, while the lions and tigers pay little attention. It’s a bit surreal. From our perch, we can see “families” of big cats on one side and bears napping in the warm sunlight on the other.

The facility is the brainchild of founder, then 19-year old Pat Craig, who was so horrified to witness old, healthy animals at the zoo euthanized because there was no where for them to “retire,” he took matters into his own hands. I can only imagine the conversation with his parents when he proposed turning the family farmlands outside Boulder into a wild life sanctuary.

But convince them he did. During his first month in operation, Craig received 300 letters from zoos across the country pleading with him to take their animals at his privately owned and funded 501(c)3 facility. The need was so great that the number of animals soon outstripped the acreage that would allow them freedom to roam, so the sanctuary moved to its present 720-acre home (much of it donated). Here, 290 animals live within large barriers that separate warring species from one another.

Earlier this year, the sanctuary received an urgent plea asking how many of the 25 lions rescued from outlawed Bolivian circuses they would be willing to take. Their immediate answer: “We’ll take them all.” Then came the scramble to ready a new 15,000 sq. ft. biosphere-like building on 80-acres of the refuge.

Why So Many Animals in Need?

His Own Swimming Pond

Surprisingly, a high percentage of rescued animals don’t come from zoos, circuses or carnivals, but from private citizens who purchase them on the black market, making the illicit exotic animal trade one of the largest sources of illegal profits in the world today. In the U.S., tigers are so popular that more are privately owned in Texas alone than remain in the wild worldwide.

But what to do when that adorable cub becomes an angry 450-pound adult with gigantic teeth and claws? The consequences are not pretty. Since they acquire the beasts illegally, owners can’t simply call animal control to take them away. So with few options, they often set them free in remote areas where they either die from hunger or terrorize neighborhoods where they sense they’ll find food.

No visit to Denver is complete without a trip to the Denver Museum of Natural History where a 100-kilowatt solar array on the roof powers the museum. The accomplishment was so impressive that President Barak Obama signed the American Recovery and Reinvestment Act (ARRA) into law from the rooftop. It is located in City Park where the exact spot that gives the Mile High City its name is clearly marked.

Exhibits inside the museum also stress ecology and health. In the Exploreum, we used individual data cards to check our heart rates, gait, pulse and blood pressure. A computer projected what we’d look like at age 70 if we didn’t use sun screen – not a pretty site. The IMAX theater, planetarium and an enormous array of artifacts attract locals and visitors alike.

Lagniappe (Extra Special Places to Visit):

Buffalo at the Rocky Mountain Arsenal Wildlife Refuge

• The Rocky Mountain Arsenal Wildlife Refuge htto//www.rockymountainarsenal.fws.gov/, the largest environmental cleanup project in the history of the planet has transformed a former WWII weapons manufacturing facility into the only urban wildlife refuge in America, home to 330 species, including buffalo, bald eagles and deer. (They call the thousands of prairie dogs that nibble on native plants “pests;” we called them adorable!)
• The National Renewable Energy Laboratory Visitor Center www.nrel.gov/visitors_center/, the largest research facility for renewable energy in the U.S.
• The National Center for Atmospheric Research www.ncar.ucar.edu/ is the largest of its kind in the nation and uses interactive exhibits to explain a variety of atmospheric phenomenon from global warming to tornados.
• B-cycles (bicycles) www.Denverbcycle.com which can be rented for 24-hours or more, help eliminate the need for cars in the city. Residents and tourists can peddle to the B-station nearest their destination to check bikes out and in. When they exit, they simply hop on another and off they go.

Where youth and history co-exist

Spanish Architecture

“The oldest city in the U.S.” may sound stodgy, but St. Augustine, Fla., is anything but. The higher the temperatures soar, the friendlier the residents become, and the more there is to do on both land and sea. (Warning: once you’ve seen it, you’ll understand why St. Augustine is also known for romantic getaways, destination weddings and honeymoons.)

Friday evening:

Make reservations at the spectacular Casa Monica, the city’s only AAA Four Diamond Hotel in the epicenter of the historic district. To take full advantage of the city’s Spanish vibe, request a room overlooking the Lightner Museum with views of gorgeous Flagler College.

Before dinner in the AAA Four Diamond 95 Cordova or Cordova Café in the hotel, enjoy owner Richard Kessler’s signature art gallery in the lobby. All co-exist beautifully with the intricate details of the Moorish décor, and many were commissioned especially for the property. After dinner, stroll down to the wharf or enjoy a moonlit swim in the rooftop pool.

Saturday:

No time to lollygag in bed if you want to see and all the sights. Grab breakfast, then purchase tickets for the Old Town Trolleys and enjoy and hour-and-a-half of “transportainment” while getting an overview of the city. Pick three or four of your favorite sites, and since the tickets are good for the three days of unlimited use, you can stay onboard for the full tour, or hop off at will. Simply catch another trolley when you emerge.

Castillo de San Marcos

Must-sees:

• The star-shaped Castillo de San Marcos built in 1672 is known as “the fort” by locals. Because it was built from coquina, a rare form of limestone and soft shells with small air pockets that absorbed shells rather than shattering, it is the oldest fort of its kind that was never breached. Kids gleefully scramble up the steps to the turrets and wander through the rooms around the periphery of the courtyard that also provided refuge for townspeople when the city was under attack. Strategically located to guard the entrance to the walled city and Matanzas Bay from invaders, the Castillo did its job well.

Pirate & Treasure Museum

• Directly across the street, the new St. Augustine Pirate & Treasure Museum combines Disney-esque kitch, history and 21^st century technology. It relives the golden age of piracy with artifacts – such as one of only two surviving Jolly Roger flags in the world, a journal about Captain Kidd’s final voyage and shipwreck treasure dating back to the 16^th century.

• Hop back on the trolley for a short ride to The Fountain of Youth Archeological Park at the site of a former Timucua Indian village. Of course, sip a bit of the pungent (but yukky-tasting) “magical” mineral spring water (in pre-poured paper cups), but there are far more intriguing exhibits – the planetarium, Indian exhibit, archeological dig and diorama depicting 500 years of history. Stunning albino and iridescent blue/green peacocks strut their stuff for guests and pose for photos.

Sipping from the Fountain of Youth

• Head back to the Lightner Museum across from Casa Monica for a delicious lunch at Café Alcazar in the deep end of what was once the world’s largest indoor swimming pool in the former Alcazar Hotel. The eclectic menu varies from soup, salad and sandwiches to Chicken Artichoke Sauté and Crepes Alcazar.

• The Lightner Museum, once known as a home away from home to New York’s social register, was built in 1887 by railroad magnate Henry M. Flagler. Far ahead of its time, the hotel had a steam room, Turkish bath, gym, spa and even a cold water plunge. After it closed in 1932, the building remained empty for 14 years before being purchased by Otto C. Lightner to house his extensive collection of Victoriana. Adults and kids alike will love the intriguing collection of mechanical instruments in pristine working condition that are demonstrated throughout the day, plus the mysterious desk with hundreds of small secret drawers rumored to have been owned by King Napoleon’s secretary.
• After a full day of sightseeing, head back to the hotel for a refreshing swim before heading to dinner at O.C. White’s on Bayfront Walk, just a short distance from the hotel.
• End the evening with a ride on Ripley’s Ghost Train Adventure, the city’s only ghost tour that takes guests inside the first ever Ripley’s Believe It or Not! Museum. The tour includes tales of the paranormal, an Electro Magnetic Field ghost meter and a disposable camera to record the visit.

Sunday:

• What’s a trip to Florida without time to enjoy the beach? Visit the 219-step St. Augustine Lighthouse & Museum for spectacular views (and bragging rights) before exploring the Maritime Museum. Pause to watch volunteers build ships from a former era and view the ancient artifacts found in nearby waters that are catalogued at this archeological site.
• Grab a quick lunch at AIA Ale Works, a kid-friendly mircro-brewery that overlooks Lion’s Bridge before boarding The Black Raven Pirate Ship for an afternoon cruise. This one-of-a-kind entertainment ship regales kids with face painting, pirate songs and sights along the Matanzas River.

• If you have a craving for the beach instead of pirates, take advantage of Casa Monica’s partnership with the beautiful Serenata Beach Club (for a small additional room fee). The plethora of beach activities include parasailing, surfing, kayaking, golf and full use of the clubhouse and pools (charges appear on your hotel bill). A Casa Monica shuttle provides once-daily transportation, but guests can come and go at leisure using their own transportation.

• For your last night in this historic city, dine at Dine at Harry’s Seafood Bar & Grill on the Bayfront where the fresh fish is delicious and they have a kid-friendly menu. It’s the perfect way to end your 48-hours in St. Augustine and plan a return trip.

Strutting his stuff

Romantic Dromoland Castle

There may be no bagpipes, parades, bands and cheering crowds upon your arrival, but even mere mortals can get treatment like royals on the Emerald Isle:

Where to Stay:

• Dromoland Castle in Newmarket-on-Fergus in County Clare, was originally home to the O’Brien clan, one of a few Gaelic royal families, direct descendants of Brian Boroimhe, High King of Ireland in the 11^th century. Today, the 5 Star 410-acre resort hosts American “royalty” like presidents Bill Clinton and George W. Bush, rock royalty U2’s Bono and Hollywood royalty, John Travolta. With handsome turrets and fascinating rabbit-warren corridors, the castle features 99 enormous rooms and suites, each individually decorated, and a plethora of outdoor activities including an award-winning parkland golf course, falconry, clay shooting, archery and tennis.

• Castlemartyr in East Cork is a manor home located near the ruins of an 800-year old castle, once home to the Knights Templar (think Dan Brown’s “DaVinci Code”). A new contemporary wing with a spa and indoor pool makes Castlemartyr a perfect year-round location. With a champion inland links-style golf course, fly fishing, archery, laser clay shooting and pony and trap outings, the resort is especially appealing for families.

• 

  Gardens at the K Club

  Romantic Knappoque Castle, better known as The K Club in Straffan, County Kildare, is Ireland’s first AA Red Star Property. Set on 550-acres of parkland on a mile-long private stretch of River Liffrey, the restored 19^th Century Georgian mansion estate was modeled after a French chateau. It is home to two championship golf courses, including the Palmer Course, a venue for the 2006 Ryder Cup and the K Club Spa. Spectacular gardens and outdoor activities that include fishing, clay target shooting and horseback riding, make it a hotel fit for royalty. Added bonus: a collection of Irish Master paintings and antiques dating from the 16^th century to the present, including those of Ireland’s greatest painter, Jack B. Yeats, brother of famed poet William Butler Yeats.

• The 5 Star Fitzwilliam in Dublin is located in the heart of the city across from the tranquil St. Stephen’s Green and Grafton Street, the city’s finest shopping area. It’s an easy stroll to the cities leading cultural, historical and leisure attractions and near fine dining and lively cafes.

• 

  Ruins at Old Head

  Old Head of Kinsale, a dramatic slice of Ireland that protrudes over two miles into the Atlantic Ocean, offers luxurious rooms and an unmatched golfing experience. The clubhouse features 15 posh suites, along with a spa, fitness suite and beauty treatment rooms. Golf royalty like Tiger Woods who call Old Head their home away from home, chose the ultra-lux Presidential Suite with a separate living room, master bedroom and dressing room. The five star de Courcey Restaurant provides dining par excellance and spectacular views.

What to do:

• 

  At The Burren

  Take a driving or walking tour through The Burren, a remarkable 100-mile limestone plateau resembling a moonscape that seems incongruous on this lush Emerald Isle. Unspoiled since the Ice Age, The Burren is the largest area of karstic limestone in Western Europe and home to many unusual rare plants. So tempting are examples that botanists have to keep reminding themselves to “take nothing and leave only footprints behind.” Like Stonehenge, megalithic tombs offer proof positive of human habitation dating back 6,000 years.

• 

  Cliffs of Moher

  Continue to the Cliffs of Moher that soar 1,220 feet above the sea and stretch more than 12 miles. So spectacular, the cliffs are Ireland’s nominee as one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. Breathtakingly beautiful, the vertical cliffs are home to Ireland’s largest seabird colony – some 30,000 pairs — including many protected species. Dolphins and seals also cavort nearby, seen best from O’Brien’s Tower, built in 1835 so visitors could get a bird’s eye view of the Cliffs and surrounds.

• 

  Next Generation Champion

  Don’t miss the Irish National Stud and Japanese Gardens in Kildare where the country’s most outstanding stallions await their fillies-fair in the hope that world class thoroughbreds will come of the unions. Originally known as the British National Stud Company, it was famous for its success in breeding racing winners. In 1915, the property was given to the British Crown, then handed over to the Irish government in 1945. The adjacent Japanese Gardens provide a sanctuary for all who come, fed by water from Tully Lake, said to be high in calcium-carbonite, which is as healthy for horses as it is for plants.

• The managers may not close the 250-year old Guinness Brewery for you as they do for the Queen and Presidents, but you can watch the brewing process and even learn how to pour the perfect glass (yes, it is an art). One of the highlights is a free pint atop the mammoth structure while enjoying a 365-degree view of Dublin.

• No trip to Ireland is complete without marveling at The Book of Kells at Trinity College in Dublin, regarded as Ireland’s finest national treasure. This magnificently illustrated manuscript was created by Celtic monks (c. 800) and contains the four Gospels of the New Testament.

 Where to dine:

•  Dromoland Castle’s Earl of Thomond Restaurant presided over by Chef David McCann.

• 

  Traditional Irish Pub

  Pat Shortt’s pub near Castlemartyr for typical Irish fare and entertainment provided by an impromptu group of talented musicians who show up nightly.

• Gregans Castle (a charming inn) in Ballyvaughan, County Clare in the heart of the Burren and just 20-minutes from the Cliffs of Moher.

• 

  Increditbe Dessert

  K Club’s River Room with fare masterfully created by Chef Finbar Higgin.

• The Cliff House Townhouse on St. Stephens Green in Dublin.

Sometimes travel is more about the journey than the destination

After a hectic, but fun week in Mobile, Ala., I plop into my cramped airline seat, hoping to delve into Kathryn Stockett’s “The Help” during the short flight to Atlanta. But my young seatmate immediately begins chatting.

“Ma’am, can you tell me where I can find the headsets for the music?” he asks, pointing to the small hole on the arm of his seat.

“I don’t think they offer them on a short flight like this” I tell him. “But your I-pod string will work.”

Embarrassed, he tells me he doesn’t have one, and I confess that I don’t either. We laugh and become kindred non-techies in a technological world.

“This is my first flight ever and I’m nervous,” he confesses. “I’ve been in prison for the last eight months. I was arrested for riding my motorcycle without a license.”

I’m uncomfortable hearing his life story, but he seems to need someone to listen. “Seems like a long sentence for such a minor offense,” I reply.

“Yes, Ma’am. It’s because of my record. This was my fifth time behind bars. I’ve been headed down the wrong path all my life. They said my mom wasn’t doing right by me took me away from her when I was a baby. My dad carried me to South Carolina, but he didn’t want me either. He left me with my aunt who took me in ‘cause no one else wanted to raise a white kid in a black family in a poor black neighborhood. I learned how to fight about the time I learned to walk. I grew up mean.”

“That must have been rough,” I sympathize.

The plane banks to the left, and he points excitedly out his window to a large octagonal building. “Look down! That’s the prison. It looks almost pretty from up here, but it sure wasn’t pretty on the inside. I ain’t ever going back there again.”

From then on, words pour out. He explains that his other stints were in prisons for low-risk offenders where they had freedom to move about the complex. This time, he was sent to a maximum security prison built to warehouse rapists, murderers and sex offenders. “At first, I was scared. Real scared. I was locked up in a two-man cell with a lifer who had no chance of parole.”

I shudder. How could such a slender young man fend off so many hard core criminals – particularly lifers with nothing to lose? I have better sense than to ask.

He reads my thoughts. “I know how to take care of myself,” he assures me. “Have since I was six. But it sure got me to thinking. I don’t want to end up like them. If I get picked up again, even for a traffic ticket, I could get sent away for life.”

We chat about all the things he’s missed while in prison, the wars in the Middle East, the recent elections, mostly his three adorable children, a boy, 10; a girl, four and another boy, two. “My little girl is a really beauty, isn’t she,?” he says, pointing to her picture.

“They’re all beautiful,” I assure him. “You must have started young.”

“Things happen,” he laughs. “I gotta’ do right by them now. Don’t want my boys growing up like me.”

“Do you have a job waiting for you back home?” I ask.

“Yes, Ma’am. “They’re holding my job at the still, but you know how that goes.”

Once again, he’s surprised me.  “At a still?”

“Yes, Ma’am. We distill 100-proof whiskey, then sell it to distributors who add flavors and cut down the strength,” he says. “I was working the second shift from 3 p.m. ‘til midnight, but since I can’t get driver’s license, I don’t know how I’m going to get home after work. The buses stop running at 6 o’clock.”

When steward asks for drink orders, I order a Diet Sprite. My seatmate declines. “It’s free,” I whisper. “They only charge for alcoholic drinks.” The young Army private sitting across the aisle orders a Coke, and my friend follows suit.

“Anything for you, soldier,” the steward says, smiling broadly.

The two men chat across me about an ad for an upcoming Extreme Boxing Challenge in the private’s open newspaper.

“That’s what I want to do now,” he says. “I’ve been fighting all my life. Might as well make some money from it.”

“Enlist in the Army?” I ask naively.

“Nah. They won’t take me. My record, you know. I meant extreme boxing.”

He talks about cleaning up his life – again. The aunt who raised him wants him to move back to South Carolina to live with her, but he doesn’t want to. “My cousins sell dope,” he says. “I don’t want to get mixed up in that again. Besides, I want to make it up to my kids for being away so long.”

When the plane lands in Atlanta, we motion to the young private to get in line ahead of us. Although I want to ask him if he’s just returned from the Middle East or is about to be deployed, I don’t have an opportunity. Either way, his life is laid out for him.

My seatmate marvels at the crowd on the concourse and follows closely behind me and the young soldier down the gigantic escalator to the cavernous transportation hub. When we reach the terminal, we are greeted by a group of USO volunteers who burst into applause when they spot the private. Other travelers join in.

I glance from my seatmate to the young soldier. In many ways, they are alike. Both are young, slender, tall. Handsome. Fit. But that’s where the similarity ends. The private risks his life so others may live in freedom. My new friend is struggling to save his own.

I pray both will have safe journeys.

The Oak Ridge Story

I have only fleeting memories of WWII. Crying for my dad, an Air Force captain who was flying the Hump (Himalayas). No gas for our car or butter and sugar for the table.  Scores of  men in uniforms. But one image seared in memory is a poster warning of the dire consequences of aiding and abetting the enemy –  “Loose Lips Sink Ships.”

How different things are today! Could the Allies have won the war after the   www.wikileaks.org’s chief snitch blabbed military and diplomatic secrets all over the internet? And what fate would he have received 65 years ago?

Methinks he would be serving time for treason.

The internet leaks and the  “loose lips” poster were both on my mind when I visited Oak Ridge, Tenn., a secret city built in 1942 for the purpose of enriching uranium for an atomic bomb — and beating the Germans to the technology. The city sprung up seemingly overnight, and within 18 months, the population had swelled to 75,000. Yet, the community tucked into the east Tennessee mountains didn’t appear on any map.

In fact, what went on within its fenced and patrolled confines was known only by President Franklin D. Roosevelt, his closest advisers and a handful of the world’s best scientists. Vice President Harry S. Truman and members of Congress were completely in the dark. So were the workers who did their jobs without knowing how they fit into the big picture. Even its designation, the Manhattan Project, named after the New York architectural firm that designed it, was an enigma.

Replica of the Atomic Bomb

When President Truman assumed the presidency after FDR’s sudden death, he was stunned to learn of Oak Ridge’s existence and its mission. Ironically, the  responsibility of making the decision to drop the bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki fell on his shoulders. After much deliberation, President Truman decided that it was vitally important to bring the country that attacked Pearl Harbor to its knees, and thus save the lives of hundreds of thousands of American servicemen who would be lost during an invasion of Japanese invasion. Though controversy still surrounds that difficult decision, there is no doubt that the atomic bombs sealed the Allie’s victory and brought World War II to a close.

Today, the Secret City is open for tours and seeing the massive buildings with mysterious names like X-10 (now Oakridge National Laboratory) and Y-12 where U-235 was separated from U-238 in a laborious process, was fascinating. Instead of producing weapons for war, Oak Ridge is now repository for war-grade uranium and re-purposing it for  nuclear power plants and nuclear medicine.

So Much to See, So Little Time

Home for Family of Four

Beyond the Secret City, Oak Ridge offers  a kaleidoscope of exploration opportunities. At The American Museum of Science and Energy (AMSE), I flitted from one interactive display to another, watching my friend Rebecca’s hair stand on end, touching, feeling, doing, reading, studying. If science had been taught this way when I was a kid, I would have a totally different mindset about the subject!

Behind the museum is an actual Flat Top house – one of thousands of bare bones structures hastily erected for Oak Ridge workers. Houses were assigned according to the size of the family and had space for only the bare essentials. Married couples with no children were sometimes housed in different dormitories or “hutments.”

The Museum of Appalachia

Mark Twain's Parent's Cabin

In stark contrast to the advanced technology displayed at AMSE, the Museum of Appalachia transported me into Daniel Boone’s world. This amazing collection of historic log cabins was amassed by John Rice Irwin who began traveling into remote areas of Appalachia more than half a century ago. Bent on preserving a fading way of life, he purchased thousands of objects from the mountain people, including their deserted log cabins.

From Irwin’s enormous personal collection emerged a living village where I walked through the log cabin where Mark Twain was likely conceived, stood mouth-agape in Daniel Boone’s cabin and peered into jail cells, smokehouses and school houses. Every cabin is situated along trails set into the beautiful natural surroundings of Norris, Tenn.

Green McAdoo Cultural Center

The Clinton , TN 12

In the deep south, the story of the Civil Rights movement wasn’t pretty. It was particularly ugly in Clinton where 12 gutsy black teenagers – the first to desegregate a state-supported high school — changed the world.

On the exterior of the Center, life-size bronze statues bring the students to life. Inside, I took my seat at a  classroom desk to learn more about how the 1956 Supreme Court decision (Brown v. Board of Education) to desegregate all public schools was carried out in Clinton.

At first, the white students and parents accepted the black students without incident. It wasn’t until outsiders incited riots that chaos ensued. When a local Baptist minister came to the defense of the students (and upheld Supreme Court decision), he was badly beaten by white supremacists who, in an act of terror and intimidation, bombed the high school.  Their actions didn’t halt the progress of equality. A week later, the integrated student body took up residence in an abandoned elementary building.

Children’s Museum of Oak Ridge

This labyrinth of a museum housed in a 50s era elementary is as appropriate for pre-schoolers as it is for older kids.  It’s also a place of discovery for adults.  Hundreds of interactive displays are tucked into a rabbit-warren configuration of former classrooms. Highlights include a gy-normous electric train set is a magnet for all ages. Kid-size doll houses, castles, forts and more lure pre-schoolers in. A straight-forward explanation of the Manhattan Project with photographs helps older children understand the history of Oak Ridge.

Travelgram Tips:

• For lessons not easily found in books, take the kids.
• There are no 5-Star hotels in the area, but the Comfort Inn, Doubletree Hotel and Hampton Inn are top of the line.
• For great food and gorgeous views, don’t miss Flatwater Grill on Melton Hill Lake.
• Other eclectic (and tasty) eateries include the Sequoyah Marina, the Jefferson Soda Fountain, Razzleberry’s Ice Cream Lab and Kitchen and the Soup Kitchen.